Ken Gordon and I awoke to a remarkably beautiful spring day at our campsite next to Little Falls on the Machias River.  We were on the second day of our river trip and sharing the scenic site with six canoeists we met the previous day. 

Anticipating an exciting paddle on upcoming Wigwam Rapids, our young newfound friends were anxious to get started.  Ken and I were on a much slower senior citizen pace.  We were still eating breakfast when they departed. One paddler called back announcing they’d see us somewhere in the Wigwams.

When we broke camp, the temperature was about seventy degrees and a handful of dreaded blackflies were pestering us.   Paddling expedition kayaks, we began the five-mile flatwater sector to the First Wigwam with the hope that predicted strong winds would alleviate the blackfly menace.

First on our agenda was an exploration of Ingley Cove located on the left about two miles downriver from Little Falls.  The Maine Atlas indicates there is a campsite there.  In my forty-five years paddling the Machias, I’d never seen it.  Hidden away deep in the cove we found a clearing with a fire ring that would accommodate a small group.

Shortly after passing Mopang Stream on the right, we arrived at the beginning of a two-mile stretch of challenging whitewater called Wigwam Rapids.  The Wigwams consist of four distinct rapids separated by pools or quick water.

The protracted first Wigwam began with a steep pitch replete with large waves and unappealing pour overs.  After scouting, we successfully navigated left before proceeding through the rollicking runout.  Quick water and easy rapids followed to Second Wigwam which entailed cautious maneuvering around two ledge drops. 

Entering a pool immediately downriver, the tops of breaking waves could be seen just over the horizon line.   Third Wigwam was next.  Our canoeing friends were investigating the falls from the right bank.  We eddied out on the left at the beginning of the portage trail to scout. 

Following careful investigation, we plunged down the left side and over a pitch at the bottom while avoiding boulders and a powerful hole.  Our canoeing friends successfully followed.  The exhilarating visit with the Wigwams ended with a Class II descent through large waves in Fourth Wigwam. 

Four miles of flatwater brought us to Holmes Falls where we cautiously disembarked in a micro-eddy immediately above the treacherous cataract.  The demanding portage was only partially completed since we elected to camp high on a bank overlooking the falls.  The canoeists soon joined us.  A gusty northwest wind minimized blackfly problems.

We were the beneficiaries of more glorious weather for our final day on the river.  Replicating the previous day, the canoeists were up early and off on their next adventure while Ken and I lingered.  They were encountered a half-mile downriver at a small island above Little Holmes Falls.  We stopped there to visit a stone monument erected in memory of Obadiah Hill, an early Machias River pioneer.  The island is an excellent location to inspect entrance to the falls.

Little Holmes Falls is a complex rapid that flows on both sides of a rockbound islet.  The left side is more difficult and cannot be readily scouted.  The right offers a narrow, twisting, technical route but is easily scrutinized from the right shore.  One canoe team went left and filled up but stayed afloat.  Another literally rock hopped down the right side. 

After carefully studying the right channel and setting up safety, Ken and I enjoyed stimulating descents.  The final canoe team followed our line.

Under normal circumstances, the last thing paddlers want to endure is a headwind.  However, we welcomed a strong breeze out of the southeast as it provided a blackfly-free remaining nine-mile paddle to Smith Landing, our final destination. 

We parted company with our new paddling friends at the landing.  They had another three miles of canoeing to their next campsite at the bottom of Great Falls.  We didn’t envy them.  A major storm was forecast to arrive during the night.  The intrepid group would be paddling twelve miles in a driving rain the next day.  Ken and I were content with three wonderful days on a remarkable river.

My book, Maine Al Fresco:  The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine narrates five more exceptional Maine river trips.